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Summer Climbing Road Trip

Pete Takeda jamming his blues away on "Kor's Korner" (5.12a) at the Garden of the Gods, Colorado.

It's finally July and we're into the long days of summer. It's time for cerveza, grilling, and a great American climbing road trip. Even with gas prices, you gotta do a road trip. To make it easy, check out these articles and photos and hit the road.

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Stewart's Climbing Blog

Dutch Family Killed in the Alps

Saturday July 26, 2008

Tragedy struck a Dutch family on July 24 high in the Italian Alps on 12,500-foot (3,800-meter) Mont Dolent, a spur peak of Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest mountain. The family of five, enjoying a long summer holiday in the mountains, was descending the normal route on Mont Dolent. The route, a popular moderate alpine climb, has some exposed and steep but not difficult snow sections. The mountain, lying on the border of Italy, France, and Switzerland, had another serious accident only the week before.

Ada De Jong, the 50-year-old mother, apparently decided to retreat and descend from the route. While she stopped to rest below, she watched the rest of her family—56-year-old Pieter Hendrik Germs, a doctor, and children Els Adriana, age 23, Mark Pieter, age 20, and Karin Maria, age 17—continue their descent. Then, she said, “I saw my husband fall, then all of my three children, one by one, they all fell. I was watching 200 meters (600 feet) away.” The bodies came to rest on rocks after tumbling 1,600 feet. Needless to say, the mother was hospitalized with severe shock after witnessing the tragedy.

A reconstruction and analysis of the fatal fall was done by the Italian Alpine Emergency Corps. Delfino Viglione, head of the accident recovery crew, told the Dutch newspaper Binnenland, “The Dutch were reasonably experienced and had the proper clothing and equipment. The weather conditions too were excellent. But they were with too many tied to the same cord. Two or three, that’s possible if you descend in a row, but four will soon become too many.” The reconstruction showed that the son led the descent, followed by his two sisters, and the father bringing up the rear above. Viglione says the son stumbled, plucking the sister behind him off too. The other sister was then pulled down by the rope. The father made a heroic effort to self-arrest the fall by plunging his ice axe into the soft snow, but he too was yanked off. “We found traces of his ice axe in the spot where the fall began,” says Viglione.

Italian climber Luca Signorelli looked at the accident based on rescue details and personal information from "reputable sources" and reported on the cause of the accident at UK Climbing’s Forum: “Yesterday the Dolent slope had a bad case of ‘red snow’…snow mixed with sand taken from the altitude winds all the way from North Africa. It's nothing unusual, but it calls for some extra caution. The snow/sand combination, during the hottest hours of the day, makes for a particularly sticky mixture, that may create some serious balls below your crampons…. So one has to be careful and do the usual ‘hit the boot with your axe’ maneuver when moving…. The best guess we can do is that a snowball formed below the crampons of one of the four climbers, who slipped, hit one of his companions and caused the fall of all the team.”

The Alps are dangerous mountains. The Italian side of Mont Blanc sees 15 to 20 fatalities a year, while the French side above Chamonix has 50 to 100. Delfino Viglione, when asked if the mountain should be closed, replied, “But you have to consider that millions of people climb up the mountain, and greatly enjoy it, also because of the adventure. We cannot put an end to that. We can point out the dangers to people, we can make sure they are well-informed and direct them to mountain guides, but ultimately it remains everyone's individual responsibility.''

I send my best wishes, prayers, and condolences to the sole survivor...death in the mountains is never easy or pretty.

Photo above: Delfino Viglione explains to reporters the tragic accident on Mont Dolent.
Photograph courtesy Bennenland

50 U.S. High Points in 45 Days!

Thursday July 24, 2008

Tomorrow morning at about 10 in the morning, Hawaii time, 31-year-old Denver middle-school science teacher Mike Haugen and 30-year-old Seattle architect Zach Price will stand atop 13,976-foot Mauna Kea on Hawaii's Big Island and celebrate their 45-day pilgrimage to stand atop every U.S. state’s high point. Their 50 States in 50 Days Adventure, sponsored by The Coleman Company, began on June 9 atop Denali in Alaska. Over the 45 days the pair and a driver logged 23,684 miles in a Toyota Highlander Hybrid as well as flying thousands of miles. The previous record to climb the 50 high points was 50 days, 7 hours, and 5 minutes.

Mike Haugen noted on a blog post yesterday: “I have been thinking a lot about the goals of this project…. It has never been about a record. Don’t get me wrong, we have definitely been busting our butt to make sure we are finished in fifty days, but it has been more about the personal challenge in order to get a few people more interested in the outdoors. We really hope that we have inspired at least a couple more people to get outside and enjoy the natural beauty that this world has to offer. We hear so much about how our environment is tainted and being destroyed, but there is so much natural splendor to be seen. Trust me…I have seen A LOT of it over this adventure.”

The 50 States in 50 Days Adventure was conceived to encourage America’s children to spend more time outside in the natural world rather than being couch potataoes. Kids were able to track the team in real time at the Coleman website with a blog and daily updates on the progress.

Photo above: Mike Haugen and Mount Whitney, highest mountain in the lower 48 states.
Photograph courtesy of The Coleman Company, Inc

Find out all the U.S. State High Points.

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