Chris Sharma and Daila Ojeda are on an Asian promotional tour for Evolv climbing shoes right now. They’ve already been to Japan, where they bouldered and climbed with Yuji Hiriyama and Dai Koyamada, two of Japan’s strongest climbers, and Korea.
Now the pair, accompanied by Mike Call from Momentum Video Magazine, are at magical Yangshuo, a famous Chinese sport climbing area. As usual, Chris Sharma is shredding the area. During the first two days there last week, Sharma onsighted a 5.14b and two 5.14a’s. Call reports on his blog: “These two (Sharma and Ojeda) are in very good shape and climbing well. The time spent on Spanish stone has them prepared for the brilliant routes that stretch up to 30 meters…Chris is killing it here….”
Daila Ojeda reported on her blog that Chris also bolted a couple routes. The first one he quickly sent and called Spicy Noodles (5.14b), while the other, a project dubbed Pump Dumpling, weighs in at a hefty 5.15a and remains to be climbed. The route, says Mike Call, is about 30 meters long and “connects a series of boulder problems connected by marginal rests.” Lastly Sharma repeated American Gangster, a controversial 5.14b route with a chipped hold that was created by French climber Michael Fuselier. Sharma, however, didn’t use the chipped hold, leading local climbers to rename the route French Gangster. Ojeda says, “I thinks the locals aren’t very happy with the chipped hold.”
Photo top: Chris Sharma working on his new project Pump Dumpling at Yangshao. Photograph courtesy Mike Call/Momentum Video
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