The UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) Safety Commission recently released its first safety standards for braking devices used for belaying and rappelling after working with device manufacturers over the last ten years. The standards include parameters for device performance as well as stringent testing guidelines so that devices can receive coveted UIAA approval.
Belay and rappel devices are crucial pieces of safety gear that climbers use every day, having these new safety standards will ensure that you can buy and use the approved devices with confidence. The standard applies to four basic braking devices--manual, locking-assisted, rappel devices, and rappel devices with a panic function. It details what kind of attachment points the device has to connect to other equipment and the size of the rope opening.
The standard also provides testing criteria for static strength on both the climbing rope and the device as well as dynamic loading strength on auto-locking devices to see how much rope slippage occurs in the device during a fall, if the rope and device are damaged by the impact forces, and what minimum and maximum rope diameters can be safely used. Lastly, the standard details the device use instructions that must be included by the manufacturer.
You can download the Braking Device Standards (UIAA 129) report from the UIAA website. While it's the sort of document that only an engineer could love, it's worthwhile to have a quick look to see the new standards so you can evaluate your own belay and rappel devices. The standards took effect on September 30. Look for approved braking devices next year.
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