I'm out in the barren wilds of western Arizona right now, hanging out with the great sixties American climber Layton Kor. Layton, along with Royal Robbins, was probably the most prolific and influential rock climber during that seminal golden period in American climbing. He climbed everywhere, putting up first ascents that are still being climbed and revered by today's rock stars.
Yesterday, while driving out to attempt a 300-foot-high soaring prow of rotten volcanic chiprock in the Black Mountains, Layton entertained Dennis Jump and me with tales of his vertical adventures. One of Kor's favorite climbing areas back then was the Black Canyon of the Gunnison in western Colorado. The Black, a deep defile lined with huge cliffs, was his personal playground. He made the first ascents of all the canyon's major walls. Here's a funny story he told me as we sped across the Golden Valley.
A bit of backstory: Layton worked as a bricklayer most of his adult life "A good job," he says. "Gave me lots of time to climb."
"I was climbing in the Black Canyon with Jim Marts back in the sixties and we got caught in a bad rainstorm. There were black clouds everywhere but I had told him, 'We don't have to worry about rain. It never rains down here.' Boy, was I wrong. We got caught about halfway up the wall in rain. I was soaked, water dripped into my boots. I ended up finishing the last pitch, aiding up a bushy groove to the rim at night with a flashlight in my mouth. Near the top the batteries burned out.
"We got to the rim and had to drive back to Boulder. I had to be at work the next morning on Monday. At one time while we were driving, I thought he was falling asleep so I grabbed the steering wheel. We had a wrestling match with the wheel.
"When I got to the jobsite, I grabbed my toolbag but I was so tired I grabbed my rope instead of my level. I walked over to the wall and all the guys were staring at me. 'Layton, what are you doing with your rope?' 'Layton, you gonna use that rope as a line?' I never heard the end of that on the construction site. The other bricklayers ribbed me mercilessly. 'Layton, you bring your rope? You need to get that wall level!' Jeez, those guys gave me a hard time."
Photograph above: Layton Kor arranges protection on the first pitch of a new route in the Black Mountains, Arizona. Photograph © Stewart M. Green.
Read more about Layton Kor and our medical fundraising effort.
Comments
What a great day! I know, I was there!
Warm sun, great company and …..loose rock!
Fun is what it’s about though, and we had lots of it!
Boots and flashlights… we’ve come a long way, baby! Looks like a good time out, recalling some old memories – and creating new ones.
Stewart, I’ve got hung in my garage a black and white sketching of a handsome, young Layton Kor w/ coiled rope around his shoulder. That, and your articles inspire and remind I’m never too old to enjoy climbing; but moreover train the young in the experience.
Thanks Charles. Layton has always been a huge inspiration for me. He was always the Man. He’s a climber’s climber and really a larger than life character. I tell Layton, “I’ve been following in your footsteps my entire climbing career.” I partnered up with the great climber Steph Davis to help Layton with his growing medical expenses. Check out our website http://www.laytonkorclimbing.com for more info.