Joe Puryear, a 37-year-old alpinist, guidebook writer, and photographer, died in Tibet on Wednesday during an attempt at making the second ascent of 24,170-foot (7,367 meters) Labuche Kang in the largely unexplored Labuche Kang Massif in Tibet with his long-time climbing partner David Gottlieb.
Details are sketchy about the accident but it appears that Puryear, climbing on a high ridge near the summit, broke through a cornice and fell 1,500 feet to his death. Gottlieb followed Puryear's tracks, spotted him below, and descended down to him.
Puryear and Gottlieb had been exploring and climbing in the remote massif since September and had already made five first ascents in the range, which has been previously visited by only three documented expeditions. The pair received some prestigious grants, including the Mugs Stump Climbing Award and the Shipton-Tilman Grant, to climb in the range.
Joe Puryear was one of America's elite alpinists who had climbed in most of the world's major ranges, including the Andes, Patagonia, Himalayas, Alps, and Alaska. Joe climbed over 30 peaks in the Alaska Range and did several ascents each of Denali, Mt. Foraker, Mt. Huntington, and Mount Hunter. Washington's Cascade Mountains in his home state were special to Joe. He worked as a climbing ranger at Mt. Rainier National Park and made over 80 ascents of the mountain by 13 routes.
Puryear also loved climbing in the American Southwest, ascending numerous big walls in Zion National Park and climbing over 65 desert towers. His 2002 speed ascents of Space Shot, Moonlight Buttress, and Prodigal Sun, three of Zion's trade big walls, in only 15 hours and 30 minutes is pretty amazing.
In a 2007 interview with the Yakima Herald-Republic, Puryear said, "I'm a rock climber at heart. I like to take the hard way. I don't like to take the easy way. And I like to do first ascents." He died doing what he loved--climbing in the high mountains, exploring the remote ranges, and doing first ascents.
Joe Puryear, survived by his wife Michelle, lived in Leavenworth, Washington. My heartfelt condolences to his wife and family on their loss. Rest in peace Joe.
Photograph above: Joe Puryear on the summit of unnamed Peak 5,965 Meters after its first ascent in 2007. Photograph courtesy Joe Puryear
Comments
Prayers for peace & comfort to wife Michelle and parents Gail & Shirley of Zillah, WA. Joe was doing what he loved; what better way to go?
Joe could have been home in bed making love to Michelle or sitting in front of his computer with a large plate of china white, totally “blissed out”. But, no…he had to risk his life and subject himself to endless suffering climbing routes fraught with danger. Even in the Sierra’s, I’ve climbed gullies and seen a huge wall break loose and only by sheer luck, be in a position were the debris blew by me. Or had a seemingly solid path on a ridge give way near Crater Lake leaving me staring down a 1000′ freefall. It’s a selfish, stupid lifestyle that only causes loved ones needless agony. Did you see the grief his poor Dad is experiencing?
http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/21134540/vp/39947751#39947751
Pete’s comment is tacky, tasteless, and totally unnecessary. Take the high road, Pete, and show a little compassion, rather than post judgemental statements that are hurtful.
I agree Beryl, his message was very tacky….in extreme poor taste.
Rest in peace Joe. I never knew you but I followed you and David every season in the climbing news.
Peace
Pete, that was very tacky and mean spirted. Maybe you should pray for a little compassion for yourself. This man adored his friends and family, as they adored him. They understood his love for climbing and embraced it with Joe.
Pete has a good point.
Yes, we adored Joe, but as for embracing his love of climbing? I don’t think that is a categorical statement anyone should make. It is too easy to say someone was “doing what they loved.” But when it is your own family member who is lost forever, you cannot comprehend the sheer enormity of grief and yes, betrayal at the choice of lifestyle. Unless you have experienced it yourself, you should not comment on how “understanding” the family may have been.