Zion National Park has always been one of my favorite climbing destinations. I started visiting Zion back in the 1970s, doing some short crack climbs and trying first ascents on some big walls with some of my climbing pals like Jimmie Dunn and Billy Westbay.
Back then, in the days before cams, which safely protect sandstone cracks, it seems we failed more often than we succeeded. But we were always happy to be the only climbers in the park, in that sandstone version of Yosemite Valley.

Zion National Park in southwestern Utah is simply one of America's great climbing areas. The 147,00-acre parkland preserves and protects a land of deep canyons and rough peaks, all composed of Navajo sandstone. Hundreds of routes from single-pitch climbs to multi-day aid climbs up overhanging walls are found in Zion Canyon, Pine Creek Canyon, and the Kolob Canyons.
I was at Zion for a few days last week, doing some climbs and updating photographs and descriptions for the upcoming new edition of my book Rock Climbing Utah. While there are still lots of tourists gawking at the soaring red walls, there are still not that many climbers there. Whatever you want to climb, you're going to be able to get on it.
Before you head to Zion National Park, read my new article Zion National Park Rock Climbing and get all the essential beta to plan your road trip, including info on camping, getting around the park, suggested rack, the best routes to climb, and park restrictions and climbing rules.
If you're going next spring...see you out there. I have plans to climb Iron Messiah on Spearhead.
Read more about Zion climbing:
Zion National Park Rock Climbing: Great American Climbing Destinations
Photograph above: Climbers on the classic route Touchstone Wall in the heart of Zion Canyon. Photograph © Stewart M. Green


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