Location: Pakistan/China, Asia
First Ascent: Hermann Buhl, Kurt Diemberger, Marcus Schmuck, and Fritz Wintersteller (Austria), June 9, 1957
- Broad Peak has no known local name. Some who wanted an indigenous name, translated Broad Peak from English into Balti, naming it P'alchan Kangri Ri.
- T.G. Montgomerie named it K3 during an 1856 survey. Later explorer W.M. Conway called it Broad Peak for its mile-long summit ridge.
- Broad Peak is located above the Baltoro Glacier in the remote Karakoram Range of northwestern Pakistan. It’s five miles from K2
- It’s debated if Broad Peak has two 8,000-meter summits or one; many climbers stop at the lower 8,015-meter summit rather than the higher 8,047 feet one. Did they really climb it?
- In 1997 American Ed Viesturs, in his quest for all 8,000-meter peaks, climbed only to the lower summit of Broad Peak. The next day climbers noticed his tracks ended there and he admitted not reaching the actual summit. He didn’t reach the upper summit until 2003. On that climb he reached the middle summit and found a party of South Koreans celebrating Han Wang-Yong becoming the first Korean to climb all 8,000-meter peaks. Viesturs pointed out that their party was premature, that the real summit was thataway! So they accompanied him over and had a real party.
- The 1957 first ascent was by a four-person Austrian expedition. All four reached the summit and eschewed the use of oxygen and high-altitude porters.
- In 1984 Polish climber Krzysztof Wielicki soloed it from base camp to summit and back down in only 22 hours.
- In 1994 Swedish mountaineer Göran Kropp, later killed sport climbing in the US, soloed Broad Peak in 18½ hours.
- Geographers say that global warming will eventually melt the snow between the central and main summits, making the central summit the 15th 8,000-meter peak.
- Broad Peak, a moderate climb, has a death rate of only 7%, making it statistically very safe.