You’re leading a long pitch at Hueco Tanks and being very careful as you climb through a loose rock section. You’re evaluating the rock quality as you ascend and occasionally testing handholds that look like they might come off. You reach a loose flake that appears like it could pop off in your hand but you have to use it to continue upward. What’s the best way to grab the hold?
Eyeball then Test the Loose Hold
You eyeball the flake. Okay, it looks like it should hold. You test the flake by tapping on it with your fingers or knuckles. Is it hollow? Is it attached at its base? It’s a bit marginal but you feel the flake will hold, plus there’s nothing else to grab to get you past this section. Now you need to use the hold.
Pull Down, Not Out
In these situations, follow the old climbing adage: Pull down, not out. I learned all about this early in my climbing career at the Garden of the Gods, the local area where I learned to climb. The Garden is filled with lots of loose, hollow sandstone flakes. You quickly learn to pull down, not out. If you don’t, that fragile hold is breaking and you’re falling.
Pulling Out Creates a Lever
Pull down, not out. As you reach up to grab that handhold, think about the forces you will generate on the hold if you pull out. By pulling out on the hold, you’re creating huge forces since you’re turning your arm and hand into a lever. You’re literally levering the hold off the wall. Pull out and you will probably be pulling the hold off.
Pulling Down Lessens Forces
Instead pull down. Pulling down generates less force on the handhold and keeps that force at the base of the hold. Also as you’re pulling down, try to keep most of your weight on your feet rather than overloading the handhold. Move slowly and delicately upward, then reach that solid jug above.
Plan For Holds to Break
Sometimes though, the handhold breaks despite your careful efforts. To avoid problems, plan ahead of time what you will do if the hold breaks. Try to make sure both of your feet and your other hand are on solid holds. If they are solid, then you will probably be able to stay in balance and recover without falling. If you’re committed to a loose hold and you pull it off, then you could swing wildly and fall. Plan for the worst scenario. Also, remember to yell “Rock” to alert your belayer or anyone else below to watch for falling rock.
