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Pixie Rock -- Best Roadside Top-Rope Cliffs at Joshua Tree

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Pixie Rock: Left Side Topo and Route Descriptions
Pixie Rock -- Best Roadside Top-Rope Cliffs at Joshua Tree

The southeast face of Pixie Rock offers many fun and popular routes for rock climbers at Indian Cove.

Photograph © Stewart M. Green

Routes are listed from left to right when you are facing the cliff.

1. Lascivious Conduct (5.11c) A short tough bolted route over a bulge on the far left side of the cliff. 3 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

2. Vaino’s Lost in Pot (5.7) A fun and sustained moderate climb. Climb up left along a diagonalling crack then up the steep featured face above. A variation climbs the scoop to the left.

3. Who’s First (5.6) Another fun and interesting route. Begin directly below the high crack. Grab good edges to rough corrugated rock. Continue up a crack, then finish up a good hand crack.

4. Direct (5.6) A good combination route that is also a good lead. Begin right of Who’s First. Face climb up thin edges to a left-angling seam. Follow the seam to a good crack; hand traverse up left in the crack, then finish up a hand crack.

5. Rhythm of the Heart (5.8) Excellent route. Start at the bottom of a big crack system. Edge and smear directly up the face, passing a couple tricky sections. Finish up a long section of thin technical face moves to the cliff top.

6. Beginner Gully (5.0) Good beginner route. Climb the wide crack system up right. Belay at the notch above or set up a top-rope anchor at the notch.

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