You have to learn how to read the rock to become a successful slab climber. Like other types of climbing, slab climbing requires good routefinding, which is simply using the topography of the rock surface to find handholds and footholds that allow you to move upward in the easiest and most efficient style possible. If you don’t use the best and most ergonomic combination of holds and existing rock features, you can easily turn a 5.7 route into a 5.11 nightmare.
Look for Big Holds First
When you’re slab climbing, first look for the obvious features that you can use for handholds and footholds. The rock at most slab areas occasionally offers big features, like knobs, chickenheads or large protruding lumps, potholes, flakes, and pockets. These are your best holds. They’re usually jugs or buckets and are good places to grab a rest for your tired feet and to steady your nerves. As you climb a slab, scan ahead and locate these big holds up the wall and aim for them.
Get Out Climbing and Learn What Works
The sequence of moves and which holds you use between the big jug holds are the keys to successful slab climbing. Reading the smooth rock terrain found on hard slab climbs is like a skier reading the texture of snow or a surfer reading the movement of water. It takes practice and experience. It takes getting out on the rock and climbing lots of slab routes and learning what your rock shoes will stick on and what your fingers can grab.
Study the Rock Surface as You Climb
First, look at the rock’s surface texture as you climb. Look for the smallest variations in the surface—spots with micro-edges that are the thickness of a dime, the slight flare of a seam crack, small crystals and bumps, tiny flakes, and shallow dishes. These small but often good holds can be difficult to see, especially in flat overhead light or in shadow.
Use Momentum and Quick Feet to Move Securely
Plan your foot sequences as you climb a slab. Try to plan three to five foot movements at a time so you can move quickly upward over tricky terrain to a predetermined rest spot, usually a bigger foothold. Avoid making one move at a time. You’ll feel less steady and secure and you’re more likely to fall then if you use preplanned footholds and momentum to propel you up hard moves on the slab to a rest hold.
Slab Footholds are Usually Small
Friction footholds on slabs are very small. Sometimes they’re just a slight bump or depression, but it’s enough for the rubber on your rock shoe’s sole to stick and hold. It helps to wear tight shoes without socks so you can feel the rock texture underfoot. If you’re climbing a well-traveled slab route, look for rubber scuffs on footholds to show which holds other climbers have used. Also remember that it’s easier on slabs to make small steps on small footholds rather than big steps on big holds. Usually you will have tiny handholds, so a high step requires pressing down with your leg to stand up and a greater risk of your foot slipping off the hold.
Watch Your Foot as You Place It
Watch your feet as you move up. Choose footholds with your eyes. Keep your eyes on your toe until it is precisely placed on the foothold. Before moving, you can feel the hold first with a finger to find the best spot for your foot placement. Try to get as much shoe rubber as possible on the foothold. Smear your toe and the ball of your foot on the rock. Keep your weight centered on your foot and stand upright and away from the slab surface. Read Use Your Feet to Climb Better for more about improving your climbing footwork.
Pick a Foothold and Use It
As you slab climb, work at learning to read the rock, to understand its nuances and discover what footholds are best for upward progress. Learn to move with precision and exactness. Pick a foothold and use it. Remember that there are no perfect holds when slab climbing so don’t try to find them. Use what’s in front of you and move up on them.
For more about slab climbing, read Slab Climbing is Fun and Teaches Footwork.
