Climbing movement is all about your feet. This is one of the basic rules of both face climbing and crack climbing. Generally where your feet go, the rest of your body will follow. This is true except for overhanging routes where arm strength is equally important.
Using Feet Keeps Weight off Your Arms
When you’re free climbing, where you put your feet and how you use your feet are the most important aspects of climbing movement. Your feet and legs are stronger than your arms and shoulders. If you keep as much of your weight on your feet and legs, using your arms mostly as a way of keeping in balance, you will take the load off your arms and keep from getting pumped out.
Keep Weight Over Feet
Keeping your weight over your feet is extremely important if you’re learning to climbing and how to move over stone. Every time I guide beginner climbers, I see them wanting to lean into the rock, almost hugging it, rather than standing upright. One of the reasons is because they’re scared.
Don’t Lean Into the Rock
I tell them, “Get on your feet. Stand up straight.” If you lie against the rock, it takes your weight off your feet and transfers it to the rest of your body resting against the rock. This creates outward pressure on your feet, causing them to slip and for you to feel insecure. It’s a paradox—if you lean into the rock to feel safe, it actually makes you feel less safe.
Stand Straight and Erect
Standing up straight and erect, with your body at a right angle to the earth’s surface, not only allows you to move more easily and keeps your weight off your weaker arms but it also lets you see your feet, possible footholds, and how you place them. Good footwork lets you move with confidence and security.
Practice Footwork on Slabs
It’s good to learn footwork on a slab, which is a rock surface that is angled less than vertical. When you climb on slabby terrain, you’re forced to use your feet and to keep your weight over your feet. With a good pair of sticky rock shoes, you can actually climb some slabs without using your arms and hands except for balance. Think of it as climbing a staircase without the stairs, you simply placed each foot on the rock and smoothly step upward.
