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Autoblock Knot

Definition of a Climbing Word

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The autoblock knot is easy-to-tie and use. No excuses not to use it!

An autoblock knot is a indispensible back-up knot that every climber should use when rappelling.

Photograph © Stewart M. Green

The autoblock knot is an easy-to-tie friction knot that is used as a safety back-up knot on a rappel rope. The knot is tied onto the rope below the rappel device and then attached to the rappeller’s harness with a carabiner clipped into a leg loop or the belay loop. The knot, an essential safety knot that every climber should know, adds friction to the rappel descent, allowing the climber to safely stop mid-rappel to rearrange the rope or to keep from rappelling too fast and losing control.

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