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How to Tie and Use a Klemheist Knot

By Stewart Green, About.com

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Learn the Klemheist Knot

Klemheist knots are superior to Prusik knots.

The Klemheist knot is easy to tie and easy to use.

Photograph © Stewart M. Green

The Klemheist knot, like a Prusik knot, is a friction knot or slide-and-grip hitch that is tied around a climbing rope with a thin length of cord. When a climber loads his weight onto the knot, it tightens and cinches onto the rope. Klemheist knots are used in pairs to ascend a fixed rope by sliding the knots up the rope. Since the Klemheist is not symmetrical like a Prusik knot, it is only useful for going one way on a rope.

Klemheist Knot is Easy to Tie

It’s very important to learn this friction knot so if you have to do a self-rescue, you will be able to do it and won’t be floundering at the end of your rope. The Klemheist knot is easy to tie and with a bit of practice you can tie it with one hand. The Klemheist knot is superior to a Prusik knot because, unlike the Prusik, it is easy to loosen up after being weighted. It also can be tied with slings or webbing rather than just cord, making it ideal to use if you’re not carrying Prusik slings.

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