Shaped by millennia of raging seas, typhoons, and earthquakes, Long Dong’s sandstone is perfectly suited for traditional climbing. The cliffs, averaging 90 feet in height, offer an array of wild, well-protected crack pitches that range in difficulty from 5.4 to 5.12. The hard routes present difficulty with athletic overhangs and pumpy off-sized cracks rather than merely technical movements. Steep rock is found in abundance at Long Dong, and the big roofs that hang over the water often offer a hidden jug or hand jam just when your arms are about to fail.
Matt Robertson, area guidebook author and American expatriate, dangles on the lip of "One Way Ticket" (5.11a), a classic trad route up The Clocktower at Long Dong.
Photo © Vaughan NevilleRead More About Taiwan
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