Matt Meets the Milky Way

An immense 800-foot-high granite slab, scraped smooth by ancient glaciers, overlooks the upper valley of the Saco River from its lofty perch on Mount Willard. The cliff, divided into a lower slab and an upper wall, offers some fine rock climbs with the best being Across the Universe (5.10a). This four-pitch route up the lower slab has Willard's best climbing on its best rock. Expect lots of fun smearing and edging and adequate bolt, piton, and gear protection. Here Matt Peer smears up the final and best pitch on the route, nicknamed The Milky Way Pitch since it follows a gleaming white streak to the top anchors.