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Climbing Stetind — Rock Climbing on Norway’s National Mountain


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Climbing Stetind's "Normal Route" — Rock Climbing in Norway
Stetind, Norway's national mountain, rises symmetrically from Tysfjord.

Stetind from the road below. Approach the climbing route by hiking up to Svartvatnet lake in a cirque below Stetind and Presttinden. The North Face is in shadow on the left.

Photograph courtesy Arnt Flatmo/www.westcoastpeaks.com

Normal Route: Stetind via Halls Fortopp

  • Normal Route (5.7 or 4+/5- NO)
  • Number of pitches: 1 5th Class pitch. Rope is used for safety on 4th Class sections.
  • Vertical Elevation: 4,975 feet (1,550 meters)
  • Starting Elevation: 30 feet (10 meters)
  • Summit Elevation: 4,564 feet (1,391 meters)
  • Climbing Time: 8 to 12 hours
  • Climbing Season: June through August

Stetind, towering above Tysfjord in far northern Norway, is an almost perfect-looking, symmetrical granite peak that rises from sea level to a flat 4,464-foot (1,391-meter) summit. The legendary mountain, a coastal landmark, is so beloved that it was voted the National Mountain of Norway by Norwegians in 2002.

Technical Climbing on Stetind

Stetind is a popular climbing destination during the long days of summer from June through August. Technical climbing routes ascend both the North and South Faces, including the ultra-classic 14-pitch South Pillar (5.10a). Most climbers, however, do the Normal Route, which offers airy ridge scrambling and a short technical crux. If you're experienced, it's an easy classic mountain route to do on your own. If you're not comfortable, area guide services offer regular trips up Stetind.

Stetind's Normal Route

Stetind by its Normal Route (5.7) up the long southeast ridge is fairly easy for experienced climbers. The usual route scrambles up Halls Fortopp (1,313 meters), a subsidiary lower point southeast of the main summit. From there the route crosses an exposed ridge that is mostly scrambling with occasional bits of easy technical climbing. Halfway across the ridge is Mysosten, a cliff that blocks the ridge. The exposed crux of the route, called De Ti Forbitrede Fingertak meaning "10 difficult finger holds," is a short technical hand traverse up a crack. If there is a guided group on the route, try to pass them before Mysosten. The groups can be as large as 12 people and are slow.

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