If you want to go fast, then you have to go light. It’s as simple as that. Lots of gear and extra stuff slows you down. To go light, of course, requires that you’re competent in all phases of your climbing. If you’re not totally competent and in shape, then you will compromise your safety if you don’t carry enough gear and water. If you embark with the bare minimum, then your margin for error is greatly reduced and you have to reach the top no matter what.
Jim Dunn’s Fast and Light Attitude
I was just talking about speed climbing with my old friend Jim Dunn, a great climber who snagged early ascents of The Nose, North American Wall, and The Heart Route on Yosemite’s El Capitan; was the first person to solo a new route on El Cap, The Cosmos; and put up lots of big wall free climbs in Colorado’s Black Canyon of the Gunnison. When Jim climbed the second ascent of The Diagonal on Chasm View Wall in the Black Canyon with Earl Wiggins in 1977, they approached the 1,800-foot wall with a fast and light attitude.
"Rope and a Rack and the Clothes on Our Back"
Jim and Earl’s motto was: “A rope and a rack and the clothes on our back.” They carried the bare minimum to ascend the route, which they knew nothing about except that it was first climbed in 1963. They carried only a single 165-foot rope, a handful of Hexentric nuts and Stoppers, a couple quarts of water, and the clothes on their backs. It wasn’t much to take for such an audacious undertaking but you have to remember that Jim and Earl were, at the time, two of the best free climbers in the United States. To climb this big unknown route in a day required that they carry as little as possible and that they climb as fast as possible. They climbed it in seven hours in a wild adventure, but that’s another story.
What to Carry
If you’re going to go light and fast on a long free route, it’s probably best if you’ve previously climbed it. That way you know the route, you know what to take, you know what you can safely leave off your rack. Put together your rack, and then strip it down. Do you really need to carry three #2 Camalots or can you get by with just one? If you’re fanatical like Hans Florine, the famed El Cap speed climber, then drill holes in your cams and nuts to reduce weight. Carry superlight wire-gate carabiners. A thin 70-meter rope like a 9mm is light and its length allows you to extend pitches. Just remember though that longer pitches require more gear.
Think Logistics to Go Light
Think about the logistics of your route. Do you need two ropes to rappel off? Will you be mostly climbing in the sun? If so, you’ll need to carry enough liquid because water or sports drinks are essential to stay hydrated and fresh. Food is another issue, but lots of lightweight high-energy bars and gels are available to keep you fueled on the rock without carrying much extra weight. Is the weather going to be great or is there a chance for storms? Bad weather requires warm waterproof clothing, otherwise you could die of hypothermia if you’re benighted on a stormy ledge. Are you doing one long free climb or an enchainment of several multi-pitch routes? If you’re doing an enchainment, then you can bring extra gear in a pack and switch it out between climbs.
Fast and Light Doesn't Mean Right
If you’re in good climbing shape and have competent climbing skills, then going light on the rock can make all the difference in getting up a long route in a day or spending a couple days climbing and then hauling a pack behind you. It’s best to practice by climbing lots of shorter routes with minimal gear before climbing a big route like the West Face of El Cap to see exactly how much gear you need to be safe. Just remember: Fast and light doesn’t always mean right. Use your head. Analyze before you blindly head up.
