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10 Always Tips for Safe Climbing

From Stewart Green,
Your Guide to Climbing.
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Follow These Basic Safety Tips for a Safe Climbing Adventure

Climbing is dangerous. You need to do everything you can to mitigate the effects of gravity and falling. Redundancy is key—always back-up every important piece of gear with another and always use more than one anchor. Your life depends on it. Beginner climbers are most vulnerable to accidents. Always use sound judgment; respect climbing dangers; don’t go over your head; ask for advice and help; be self-reliant and cautious; find an experienced mentor or take lessons to learn how to climb safe. Remember that most accidents happen because of climber error. The following 10 tips will keep you safe on the rock.

1. Always Check Harnesses

Stewart M. Green
After you’ve geared up, always check that both the climber’s and belayer’s harness buckles are doubled back.

2. Always Check Knots

Before you start climbing, always double check that leader’s tie-in knot (usually a Figure-8 Follow-Through) is tied right and finished with a backup knot. Also check that the rope is threaded through both the harness waist loop and the leg loops.

3. Always Wear a Helmet

A climbing helmet is essential if you want to live long and prosper. Always wear one when climbing or belaying. Helmets protect your head from falling rocks and from the impact of falling.

4. Always Check the Rope and Belay Device

Before you lead a route, always double check that the rope is properly threaded through the belay device (especially if it’s a GriGri). Also, always make sure the rope and belay device are attached with a locking carabiner to the belayer’s harness.

5. Always Use a Long Rope

Make sure your rope is long enough to reach the anchors and lower back down on a sport route or to reach a belay ledge on multi-pitch routes. When sport climbing, if you have any doubt that the rope is too short, always tie a stopper knot in the tail end to avoid being dropped to the ground.

6. Always Pay Attention

When you’re belaying, always pay attention to the leader above. He’s the one taking the risks of a fall. Don’t visit with other climbers at the base, talk on a cell phone, or discipline your dog or kids. Never take the leader off belay unless you are absolutely certain he is tied in and safe and he communicates that to you.

7. Always Bring Enough Gear

Before you climb a route, always eyeball it from the ground and determine what you need to bring. You know best. Don’t rely strictly on a guidebook to tell you what to bring. If it’s a sport route, verify visually how many bolts need quickdraws. If in doubt—always bring more than you think you need.

8. Always Climb With the Rope Over Your Leg

When you’re leading, always make sure the rope is over your leg rather than between them or behind one. If you fall with the rope in this position, you will flip upside down and hit your head. Wear a helmet for protection.

9. Always Properly Clip the Rope

Make sure you always clip your rope through carabiners on quickdraws correctly. Avoid backclipping, where the rope runs front to back rather than back to front in the carabiner. Make sure the carabiner gate faces opposite your direction of travel, otherwise the rope can come unclipped. Always use locking carabiners on important placements.

10. Always Use Safe Anchors

At the top of a pitch or route, always use at least two anchors. Three is better. Redundancy keeps you alive. On a sport route, always use locking carabiners if you’re lowering down to top-rope off the anchors.
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