The Front Side of North Mountain, a 250-foot-high, west-facing wall, offers the best climbing routes at Hueco Tanks. Over 70 routes from one to three pitches long ascend the cliff. This guide details all the best classic climbs. Expect excellent face climbing on sharp edges, big hueco holds, and finger pockets. The rock, an ancient granite called syenite porphyry by geologists, is rough and abrasive, offering great friction for your climbing shoes but is hard on your hands.
Front Side Routes are Serious
The Front Side routes are generally bold affairs that require the proper knowledge and experience to place good gear for protection and belays. Most routes have bolts on them for protection, but don’t expect to clip a bolt every 10 feet. Some bolted climbs, like Sea of Holes, are very runout and have few gear placements. Use caution because a fall may cause serious injury. If you’re not comfortable placing gear or climbing without much protection on Hueco’s old-style traditional routes, then pick less daunting lines like Divine Wind that have only bolt protection.
Your Hueco Rack
Most routes need a rack of gear that includes wired nuts, TCUs, and cams up to 3 inches. Carry at least 12 quickdraws as well as a few two-foot-long slings. A 200-foot (60-meter) rope is handy for running pitches together, but a standard 165-foot (50-meter) rope works just fine.
Descent Info
Descent from Front Side routes is either by rappelling from fixed anchors on the various routes or by climbing to the cliff-top and scrambling down north to Laguna Prieta. Many routes require two ropes to rappel off. Double check your distances to the ground to make sure your ropes reach. Also bring extra webbing if you need to replace rotten rappel slings.
