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Hueco Tanks Rock Climbing — Climbing Guide to the Front Side Routes

By Stewart Green, About.com

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Cakewalk Wall: Climbing Guide to Hueco Tanks Front Side

The Cakewalk Wall has Hueco's best long moderate climbing routes.

Drawing by Martha Morris

Cakewalk Wall offers moderate routes on its slabby face. Some are run-out with sparse protection. Routes are described from left to right. Descent: From the summit, scramble north down slabs to the road.


  1. Flake Roof (5.11+) Climb to a left-facing dihedral, then a roof, traverse left 10 feet and pull over. Belay at 2 bolts or continue up #7 for an exciting finish.
  2. True Grip (5.10a) 2 pitches. Excellent. Pitch 1: Climb a dihedral to a roof then stem left and climb a face to a horizontal crack. Move up left to a 2-bolt belay. Pitch 2: Move left to a bolt, then climb up left to a face with huecos (crux). Finish up easier rock. Rack: To #4 Friend.
  3. Son of Cakewalk (5.6 R) 2 pitches. Pitch 1: Climb to a small roof by a left-facing corner. Pull the roof and climb up to a crack to a belay. Pitch 2: Climb the crack to a short headwall. Gain the summit by crossing a crevice or rappelling into the crevice.
  4. Return of Cakewalk (5.7 R) 2 pitches. Fun climb. Start on the highest boulder at the base. Pitch 1: Climb to a large hueco then up right to easier climbing. Belay after 150 feet. Pitch 2: Climb up left and pass a white roof.
  5. Cakewalk (5.6) 3 pitches. Excellent—a Hueco classic. Pitch 1 is tricky to protect. Start right of boulders at the base. Pitch 1: Grab good holds to a black groove. Climb up right to a hand crack and 2-bolt anchor on a ledge. 125 feet. Pitch 2: Jam a long crack to a big overhang. Move right and belay. Pitch 3: Scramble up an easy crack to the top. Rack: Nuts, TCUs, and cams to 3 inches.
  6. Cakewalk Direct (5.10a) Excellent. Start behind picnic table #37. Pitch 1: Work up right to a black streak to a bulge. Climb the bulge’s to easier rock and a 2-bolt anchor. 6 bolts. Rappel or do Pitch 2: Climb Cakewalk to the top. A harder start begins at a thin crack and climbs up left past a bolt to the black streak. Rack: Nuts and TCUs.

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