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Hueco Tanks Rock Climbing — Climbing Guide to the Front Side Routes

By , About.com Guide

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Left Central Wall: Climbing Guide to Hueco Tanks Front Side

The Central Wall offers a couple of Hueco's best climbing routes.

Drawing by Martha Morris

Central Wall is the cliff's mid-section. Routes are steep, long, and excellent.

  1. Banana Patch (5.10) Start left of chimney. Pitch 1: Climb a seam then move right to a finger crack. Climb crack to an exposed step across a chimney. Climb to a 2-bolt belay. Rappel 100 feet or do Pitch 2: Climb Busted. Work up right and climb a rib. Rack: TCUs, cams & nuts.
  2. Alice in Bananaland (5.10a) Begin right of chimney. Climb to a bolt, then grab huecos to a thin crack. Climb the crack to anchors. 6 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. Rappel 120 feet or climb Busted. Rack: Medium & large nuts and small cams.
  3. Busted (5.9 R) On upper face. From #1’s anchors, move up right and climb a rib to a ledge. 3 bolts. Above, pick a crack to the top.
  4. Malice in Bucketland (5.9) Excellent. Begin on a boulder. A bold start leads to a high 1st bolt—don’t fall. Continue with big holds to an airy stance. 7 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. Rappel 120 feet.
  5. Cowboyography (5.13) A steep pumpy face left of a chimney. 8 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.
  6. Divine Wind/Brain Dead (5.8/5.10+) Excellent 2-pitch link-up. Start right of chimney. Pitch 1: Divine Wind Climb 100 feet up right on edges to ledge. 5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. Pitch 2: Brain Dead. Work right then up steep rock to a ledge. 7 bolts. 165 feet. Scramble to top.
  7. All the Nasties (5.9+ R) 2 pitches. Scary but good. Climb past a bolt & up a thin crack. Move right on bad rock and work up left. 4 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. Pitch 2: Climb up left to a headwall. Go straight up (1 bolt) or traverse right then up good rock to top. Climb a crack above or scramble to the top. Rack: TCUs, nuts & cams.
  8. Purple Microdot (5.11 R) 3 pitches. Fine moves but tricky gear. Start at a boulder. Pitch 1: Follow right crack to a 2-bolt belay. Pitch 2: Move right under roof to right-facing corner, climb to a ledge. Pitch 3: Traverse ledge left or climb cracks to the top.

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