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Hueco Tanks Rock Climbing — Climbing Guide to the Front Side Routes

By , About.com Guide

5 of 5

Right Central Wall: Climbing Guide to Hueco Tanks Front Side

Excellent hard routes ascend the steep right side of Hueco's Central Wall.

Drawing by Martha Morris

Central Wall's steep right side offers hard routes.

  1. Walking on the Moon (5.10 R) Start at a juniper. Grab huecos to a bolt. Work past bolt 2 and up left to a vertical crack (small nuts). Climb up right to bolt 3and cross a flake to bolt 4, then climb to anchors. 4 bolts to 2-bolt anchors. 135 feet.
  2. Final Stone (5.11 R) Climb a shallow corner to a flake system (crux at horizontal rib). Continue up runout climbing to the last bolt to a belay above crescent-shaped crack. 6 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. 135 feet.
  3. Window Pain (5.10b/c) Superb and continuous—a must-do. Start left of an obvious dihedral. Face climb straight up steep rock to anchors. 11 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. 155 feet. 2-rope rappel.
  4. No Fear of Flying AKA Double Cross (5.11d) Start left of a dihedral. 8 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. Rack: RPs & small cams. 2-rope rappel.
  5. Lunacy (5.10) Start at a big dihedral. Pitch 1: Stem and jam 75 feet over a small roof to a finger crack to a 2-bolt belay ledge. Pitch 2: Continue up dihedral to a big roof. Finish up a wide crack to a chimney.
  6. Lunar Abstract (5.12a) Short and sweet. Start right of dihedral. Crimp up an overhanging seam. 3 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.
  7. Lunatic Friends (5.10+ R) 2 pitches. Start right of a dihedral. Pitch 1: Tricky moves over a bulge to a steep headwall. Traverse left around a corner. Continue up steep rock to a ledge. 6 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. 165 feet. Pitch 2: Move right under roof then climb easier rock to the top. Rack: Nuts, TCUs, & small cams.
  8. Desperado (5.10+) Excellent pitch on upper wall. Pitch 1: Climb a chimney then work up left along a crack to a stance. Pitch 2: Grab jugs up an overhanging face past 3 bolts to a thin crack that leads up left to top. Rack: TCUs & nuts.
  9. Lost Nerve (5.7) 2 pitches. Pitch 1: Climb a chimney up a dihedral to a belay stance. Pitch 2: Continue up the right wall of the dihedral.

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