1. Sports
Send to a Friend via Email

Your suggestion is on its way!

An email with a link to:

http://climbing.about.com/od/utahrockclimbing/ss/WallStreetOverview_2.htm

was emailed to:

Thanks for sharing About.com with others!

Wall Street: Moab's Most Popular Climbing Area

By

2 of 4

Wall Street Offers Both Sport and Crack Climbs
Dennis Jump jams El Cracko Diablo (5.10a) at Wall Street near Moab, Utah.

Wall Street offers lots of stellar crack climbs like El Cracko Diablo as well as great face routes.

Photograph © Stewart M. Green

Bolt-Protected Face Climbs and Crack Routes

Wall Street, composed of soft Navajo sandstone, offers a different climbing experience from many other Moab climbing areas. While the Street boasts lots of great crack climbs, it has more face climbing routes on both vertical faces and lower-angle slabs than other area cliffs. These routes are generally climbed with both finesse and strength, relying on good footwork to reach the anchors. Footholds often tend to be smears or rounded edges, while handholds include edges, flakes, dimples, huecos, and occasional pockets.

Wide Range of Grades

The majority of Wall Street routes are sport climbs protected by bolts and drilled pitons with beefy bolt anchors for rappelling and lowering. Most routes are from 40 to 60 feet long, with a few measuring as long as 100 feet. Route grades range from 5.4 to 5.12, with the majority falling in the popular 5.9 and 5.10 grades. Many quality easier routes are found, especially at the School Room and Top-Rope sectors with good climbs for beginning leaders as well as lots of top-rope routes with easily accessible anchors for novices and groups.

Wall Street Cracks and Rack

Wall Street's crack climbs require a generous rack, although you can get by with a minimal rack if you pick and choose which cracks you do. A basic Wall Street rack includes two sets of Camalots or Friends to 3-inches; a #4 Camalot; sets of TCUs and Stoppers; 12-16 quickdraws; a few slings; and a single rope. A 165-foot (50-meter) rope works fine on almost all of the routes.

  1. About.com
  2. Sports
  3. Climbing
  4. Where to Climb
  5. Utah Rock Climbing
  6. Wall Street: Moab's Most Popular Rock Climbing Area

©2014 About.com. All rights reserved.