Owl Rock, a 110-foot-high freestanding sandstone spire in the Garden of Eden at Arches National Park, is the first introduction to the scary art of desert tower climbing for a lot of folks. Owl Rock, the most climbed tower in Arches, is also the most popular tower climb in the Moab area. It has a lot to recommend it—an easy two-minute approach from a viewpoint parking area; fun, well-protected, moderate climbing up an obvious crack system; and a diminutive summit with great views across the park.
Owl Rock is formed from the Dewey Bridge Member of Entrada Sandstone, the main arch-forming sandstone in the national park. It was also once known as Eagle Rock, a name derived from a owl- or eagle-shaped block (depending on the viewer’s imagination) that once perched atop the summit but toppled off in 1941. Ron Olevsky made the tower’s first ascent solo in February, 1978.
Arches National Park Climbing Regulations
Climbing in Arches National Park is regulated and climbers are subject to some important rules, which they are obligated to know and obey, including using red chalk that matches the rock’s color and not placing any permanent anchors. Check the park’s Climbing page for a complete and up-to-date list of regulations.
For More Climbing Information
For more information about climbing in Arches National Park, consult Rock Climbing Utah by Stewart M. Green and Desert Rock: Rock Climbs in the National Parks by Eric Bjørnstad.
Finding Owl Rock
From the Arches National Park Visitor Center just off U.S. 191 north of Moab, drive north on the park road for 9.3 miles to the signed Garden of Eden and Windows road. Turn right or east on it and drive 1.1 miles to the Garden of Eden parking area on the left side of the road. Owl Rock is obvious immediately east. Scramble across a wash and up slabs to the base of its west face. Hiking time is two minutes.
Olevsky Route (5.8+)
- Number of pitches: 1 plus 10 feet of scrambling to summit
- Height of route: 110 feet
- Climbing time: 1 hour
- Approach hiking time: 2 minutes
This fun route ascends the right-hand crack system on Owl Rock’s west face. Expect steep but juggy climbing up the crack with occasional big holds as well as jams. The route is well-protected with lots of placements for both cams and Hexentrics. It has become a bit harder over the past years with all the traffic it receives. The route is very popular and in danger of being loved to death. Step lightly. Begin on the slab below the crack.
Pitch 1: Start up the crack by grabbing jugs, knobs, and fins in the first half and then solid hand and fist jams in the upper crack. Finish on a big belay ledge with a 3-bolt/piton chain anchor. 100 feet.
Pitch 2: Not really much of a pitch. Scramble up right onto a shoulder and then cruise up a short slab (5.0) with some chopped footholds to the small airy summit and a single piton anchor. Relax and enjoy the view!
Descent: From the summit, downclimb back to the fixed anchors on the ledge. Make a 100-foot (60-meters) rappel with either double ropes or a single 200-foot cord back to the tower base.
Rack: Camalots from #1 to #4 or equivalent-sized Friends, with doubles from #2 to #3; alternatively medium to large Hexentrics work good in the crack; 2 165-foot (50-meter) ropes or a single 200-foot (60-meter) rope. Helmets are also advised for both climbing and belaying.
